Buenos Aires Guide

This is a simple guide for first time visitors dancing in BsAs, written by Neville Waisbrod

Things to take:

Travel from the airport:

Have your luggage tab available when leaving with your luggage before customs. It will be checked against your bags to make sure you are not leaving with someone else’s.

From the Airport there is a real budget bus trip into town. About 1.5 pesos. Not advisable if travelling with luggage, but worth it if you are meeting someone at the airport. It takes over an hour and is a real sightseeing trip of the suburbs, some of them very poor, of BsAs. Very bumpy.

The second is to get a taxi for about 40 pesos, which you pay for at the taxi counter as you come out of customs, and get accompanied to the taxi. Don’t take a taxi from one of the hawkers at the airport.

You can also get an air conditioned transfer direct bus, about 27 pesos, also organised in the terminal. This will take you into town and then transfer you to your destination by minibus. Make sure your ticket includes the mini-bus leg. You can also get a taxi from the city terminal if you don’t take the mini-bus option. This is quite a good option as taxis are cheap and you won’t wait more than a minute for one to go by.

When you come out of customs into the terminal go to the tourist counter immediately to the right and get a big map of BA, also, a small Tango map should be available, and any other material they have on Tango. BA Tango and Tangauta are monthly magazines promoting Milongas and lessons, and are a must.

If you don’t manage to get one there, ask for one from the oldish lady who hands out pamphlets at many of the milongas.

Taxis:

Only take radio taxis!!! Don’t be shy to refuse a non-radio taxi. The radio taxis can be identified by a sign on the back door or/and on the light on the roof. They are safest.

It’s not usual to tip a taxi.

After milongas there may be a guy outside offering to hail you a taxi. They are ok and do it for the tip. You will also get your door opened for you. The after-Milonga taxis are usually OK - again don’t take a non radio one, even if offered - and will know all the Milongas if you are Milonga hopping in one night.

It is best to learn the nearest corner you are going to, e.g. Peru y (pronounced ee) Belgrano. Taxis are cheap and you can expect to pay between 5 and 10 Pesos to get to a Milonga from most parts of the city.

Get an idea of where you are going so that if you see you that you are being taken for a ride, you can jump for it. The city is a one-way dream so it’s fairly easy. Taxi drivers don’t usually take you a long way around for an extra buck.

Watch out when you give the driver a note. They have been known to change it by slight of hand and say that you only gave them a much smaller one. It’s always wise to have lots of smaller notes to prevent this from happening and to say out loud the amount you’re giving them (“cinco [five] pesos”) as you hand it over.

Subte (subway):

Clean, easy, and runs till about 10.00pm. Cost 70 centavos for a single trip to anywhere. You buy a ticket at the gate and use it to enter the subway system. You don’t need it to exit. The network is on most maps of the city.

Buses:

Great if you know how they work. They run all night but with longer wait times in the early hours. You can get a route booklet (Guia T) at any of the newsstands and try and decipher which bus to take where. Most inner city trips cost 80 centavos and you tell the driver which street you want to go to, drop your money, coins only, in the machine and your ticket hopefully pops out. Because of all the robberies, the drivers don’t handle money.

Money:

There are plenty of ATM machines around town. Best to take money out in daylight or in a busy area. They may run out on the weekends and only get refilled at about 3pm on a Monday so make sure you have cash for the weekends. My cheque account from NZ worked fine with the Cirrus option. Try not to change money, or as little as possible, at the Airport. If you have 50 pesos on you when you arrive for the taxi, it will save heaps of time at the airport. The exchange rate there is ridiculous. After taking your money out of an ATM, ask for small change, say 20 peso notes, from a bank, as large notes 50 and 100 pesos) are not always accepted. There are a lot of counterfeit notes around so be careful. Try not to carry credit cards or bankcards around and only take the money you need when you go out. Forget about keeping money in shoes, if you get mugged, your shoes will probably go as well. Most credit cards are accepted at most places but you may need your passport for ID for larger purchases. A photocopy of the main page in your passport is adequate.

Scam Alert:

A favourite one is an excuse to clean some bird poop off your clothes that has been purposely put there. Rubbing you down is an ideal opportunity to pickpocket your wallet or purse.

Tips:

10% is the usual tip at restaurants.

Shopping:

Goods made locally are a lot cheaper, especially clothes.

Shoes. The best shoes are custom made and about 20% more expensive than off the shelf ones but well worth it.

For dance shoes there is Artesanias. The lady’s name is Leo – you will need a translator to make an appointment – she comes to your hotel/apartment and measures you up with a choice of leathers, heels, styles – she carries the samples with her. It takes a week for the fitting, again at your place, so leave time for it. They have no retail outlet. Phone/fax number is 4280-3912. She is well known to the locals. Men’s cost 180 pesos. Great quality.

You can also get those soft practice Tango dance shoes custom made. Tango y Jazz, the guy’s name is Fabio and their address is Indepencia 226 – Moron. Phone number is 4483-2531 and mobile is 15-4025-0059. Also available in a choice of styles and colors. No English and it also takes about a week. tangoyjazz@ciudad.com.ar  Men’s cost 200 pesos. He will also come to you to measure up. Leave time for a second fitting, as they don’t always get it right first time.

CDs: A huge choice of them at Zivals, corner Callao and Corrientes. It’s easy to listen to them there as well as they have a system where you scan the barcode in and can listen to them at your leisure. Their prices are good as well. Also look around in the little shops in the Subte where you can pick up some bargains for 3 pesos.

There is a list of shops for dancers in the tango magazines mentioned above.

Florida Street is an experience not to be missed for the shop-aholic.

You can buy tango dresses at some of the Milongas as well, sometimes in the ladies restroom area.

Internet and phoning home:

Hundreds of cafés (Locotoria) around, just about every block. About 1.5 pesos/hour. The keyboards are slightly different. The @ sign is “alt 6 4” which had me stumped for a while. You can also use the phones there to phone home.

Phone cards are also widely available at most kiosks and it’s worth having one on you for emergencies. The best deal for phoning NZ I found was the “Hablemas” card available for 5 and 10 pesos.  You can buy them at some of the sweet kiosks in the city and it’s worth hunting for when walking around. If you have a local phone available, local calls are free, at the Locotoria a local call costs about 20 centavos.

Some emergency numbers:

Police                           101

Free ambulance            107

Water:

The water is OK for brushing your teeth but buy your drinking water from any kiosk.

Electricity:

220 volts. Some outlets are the same as in New Zealand but it may be worthwhile taking a European 2 pin adaptor if you have one. They are also widely available for about 2 pesos.  They will cost you about NZ$15 in NZ.

Entertainment:

There are heaps of non-Tango shows. Concerts, plays, musicals. They are dirt-cheap. Get the Buenos Aires Herald every day at any newsstand for what’s on. There’s an insert of “Get Out” in the Friday edition, which is quite good. You can go to the ballet for 5 Pesos and I went to a concert at Teatro Colon for 2 Pesos!! This theatre is also worth a tour which they have in English at set times.

These cheap tickets are part of government policy for making culture available to the masses. 

Some of the shows are more expensive cost up to 40 pesos at times.

Milongas:

You can order a table by phone at all of them. It will give you, women and men, a better chance of getting dances if you have a prime spot. The locals know each other and can afford to take a back seat. It will also give you a better view of the floor if you just want to watch, and you do want to watch if you aren’t dancing. You can also order food at most of the Milongas if you haven’t had time for dinner. The host or waiter at most milongas will seat you so wait at the door when you arrive. 

Don’t leave any valuables at the table while you are dancing. Especially woman dancing with closed eyes. Your bag is an easy target. The last thing you are thinking about is your handbag while you are having your Tango moment. So, take only what you need to a milonga. The same goes for men. Don’t leave any cards or money in your jacket or bag while you are dancing.

You can check your coat and bag in at most milongas, which is usually quite safe.

Dress. Lots of women dance in slacks. Personally, with all things being equal, I will ask a better-dressed woman to dance first. I think that the same goes for the woman. The locals who sometimes wear jeans and sneakers know each other well and can afford to dress as such. Guys, wear a smart suit and your chances of getting dances will be better – this from one of the local woman.

Women: the ladies’ room at many milongas (and some public toilets around the city) often have caretakers who keep loo paper on a table at the entrance. You need some centavos to pay for it – anything from 25c to 1 peso seems to be adequate.

My favourites.

Monday   Canning: A great floor but can be quite crowded. For woman a good table is near the bar but though it’s not serious if you are seated anywhere in this square shaped venue.

Tuesday  Porteño y Bailerin: Laid back and friendly.  2 pesos to enter but you need to order a drink and keep the ticket they give you when you pay for it. This is your pass to get out. They have 2 dance floors so there is usually lots of space on one of them if you want to spread your wings. The better dancers dance on the first floor. For woman a good table is in the first room near the bar or along the wall on the left as you enter.

Wednesday    La Nacional: More formal. For men and women a good position is in the centre along either of the long ends of the venue. There is an all night café in the same block on Congreso square which is a good place to have a Submarino (chocolate melted in hot milk) and breakfast after dancing.

Thursday        Niño Bien: Great venue. An opportunity to dress up.  Quite formal. Awesome music. The food is not bad there if you have missed dinner. For men and women a good position is in the centre along either of the long ends of the floor. Try not to sit at the far end if you are new to this milonga.

Friday      Canning: Then to La Viruta at about 4am. Very informal and bumpy. They usually have Chakarera (folk dancing) at about 4.00. You can also get breakfast there.

Saturday El Beso: Lots of Milongeuros and the standard is high. For woman the best seats are near the bar. For men the best place is to stand near the bar.

Sunday   Porteño y Bailerin, El Beso beforehand.

Laundry:

There are lots of them around and for a large load with some ironing the cost is about 7 pesos. You don’t have to wait around, just leave it there and pick it up later.  Also plenty of dry cleaners.

Restaurants:

There are obviously thousands of them around, from the all-you-can-eat for 6 pesos to the more expensive ones. Generally you will pay about twice the price for the same meal in NZ.

My favourites:

Finca Las Moras      Defensa 1000  One block from Plaza Dorrego

Des Nivel Defensa 855    Traditional. Popular with locals. Lotsa meat.

Via Via     Corner Chile/Balcarce      Good food good atmosphere.

Club Del Vino   Cabrera 4737  Very near Canning

Club Espanol    De Irigoyen 172       Silver service. Great for the last night in BA

Chiquilin   Sarmiento 1599       Great traditional food  -awesome steaks

Gardelito  Thames 1914   You need to book a table for the weekend

Sarkis      Thames 1101   Armenian  food, book table on weekends

 

Lessons:

Most of the Milongas have lessons before they start and it’s a good way to get to know people and check out the teachers. The price of the lesson is 10 pesos and includes the Milonga.

Tango Teachers:

My favourites:

Milonga/Traspie

Milongeura Style

Men’s Tango Technique
Mariela y Gaston Susana Miller/Maria Plazaola Daniel
48211545/48241207 tangomio@hotmail.com 4582 7050 (El beso)
Tango Elite at El Beso
Callo 339, 2nd floor Riobamba 416
Private 50 pesos Private 100 pesos Only private- negotiable depending on how many lessons.  
She speaks English well and will translate during group lessons.
All levels in the same class. 		Speak English ok but not during group lessons. Nearly all locals. Beginners/intermediate and advanced have separate classes. Great with basic technique. Clear teacher. From the Dinzel school.
No English and can be contacted through Helen on 4361 3314

Tango

Women’s Technique

 
Sergio Natario & Alejandra Arrue Viviana Maceri

 
42044065/15-51084277 4932-5535 vivianamaceri_danzas@yahoo.com.ar
They teach in a few places before Milongas
Their English is ok Good English

Side Trips:

If you are thinking of going to the Iguazu falls up north, make sure that you have a visa for Brazil. It may be cheaper to book the trip in BA and the cost for a 3 night trip, all inclusive i.e. hotels (3 star – very basic)  breakfast and dinner, excursions in Argentina and Brazil is about 600 pesos for a single.

Take the 70 peso boat and safari ride in the park as well. It is well worth it. The best deal I got for this trip was from Savarin Turismo at 250 Florida – down the passage. Ph/fax 4326-5747

Going Home:

The best fare I found to the airport was with a remis (sort of mini cab private car) company called Le Cog. The charge a pre determined fare. From San Telmo it was 29 pesos. Phone no 4964 2000    www.remiseslecog.com.ar

There is an US$18.00 airport tax when you leave BsAs which can also be paid in Pesos.

The following is a translation of common terms used in the dance community and is compliments of Maggie Cohan-Hughes of the UK - http://www.tangofocus.com

ENGLISH/CASTELLANO TANGO VOCABULARY

(March 2004)

 

PARTS OF THE BODY

los

aductores

adductors

el

brazo

arm

la

cabeza

head

la

cadera

hip

la

cintura

waist

el

codo

elbow

el

cuerpo

body

el

dedo

toe

finger

la

espalda

spine

el

hombro

shoulder

la

mano

hand

el

ojo

eye

el

pecho

chest/breast

el

pie

foot (feet)

la

pierna

leg

la

rodilla

knee

el

taco

heel

el

tobillo

ankle

TIME

a menudo

often

a veces

sometimes

ahora

now

antes

before

despues

after/later

otra vez

again

siempre

always

nunca

never

POSITION

arriba

above

abajo

below

detras/atras

behind

/back

adelante

in front/forward/

to the front

cerca

near

away from/far

lejos

adentro

inside

afuera

outside

abierto

open

cerrado

closed

junto

together

separado

apart

aca

here

alla

there

izquierda

left

derecha

right

sobre

over

abajo

under

al otro lado

across/

on the other side

junto a

beside/next to

al lado/al costado

sideways/to the side

diagonal

diagonal

a traves de/por

through

entre

in between

aldredor

around

VERBS 1

(past irregular in brackets)

useful phrases

abrir

open

step sideways/with legs apart

ayudar

help

cerrar

close

flexionar

articular

bend (bent)

andar

step

take a step to…

bailar

dance

bajar

lower

bend down

cambiar

change

change partners

caminar

walk

comenzar

begin (began)/start

let’s begin

marcar/conducir

lead (led)

corregir

correct

dar

give (gave)

descansar

rest

take a break

deslizar

slide (slid)/glide

dibujar

draw (drew)

empezar

start/begin (began)

empujar

push

enseñar

teach (taught)

equilibrar

balance

find your balance

escuchar

listen

estirar

stretch

stretch out

ficarse

see (saw)

pay close attention to

girar

turn

hacer

do (did)/make

ir

go (went)

juntar

join

put your feet together

levanter

lift

mantener/quedarse

keep (kept)/stay

mirar

look

Watch

mostrar

show

moverse

move

olvidar

forget (forgot)

pasar

pass

Take your weight into…/Put your weight on…

pivotear

pivot

practicar

practise

preguntar

ask

preparar

prepare

relajar

relax

repetir

repeat

seguir

follow

sentir

feel (felt)

separar

separate

soportar

support

sostener

hold (held)

tener

have (had)

tener que

have to/have got to

terminar

finish/end

tirar

pull

tocar

touch

trabajar

work

traer

bring (brought)/

take (took)

venir

come (came)

ver

see (saw)

ADJECTIVES

suave

soft/ gentle

duro/rigido

hard/rigid

relajado/flojo

relaxed

tenso/rigido

tense/rigid

grande/largo

big/large

pequeno

small/little

chiquito

tiny

alto

high/tall

bajo

low

pesado

heavy

liviano

light

rapido

quick/fast

despacio/lento

slow

tranquilo

quietly/gently

ruidoso

loud

recto/bloqueado

straight

articulado/flexionado

bent

directo

direct/straight

limpio

clean

sucio

messy(dirty)

fluido

flowing

broken up

diferente

different

MORE WORDS

el

abrazo

embrace/dance hold

la

barra

bar

el

borde

edge

el

circulo

circle

el

compas

timing/beat

el

cruce

cross

la

direcion

direction

el

eje

axis/balance

el

espacio/lugar

space/place

la

figura

figure/steps

la

fuerza

force/power

el

giro

turn

la

linea

line

in a line

el

medio

middle

el

movimiento

movement

el

ocho

ocho

el

paso

step

la

pausa

pause

el

peso

weight

el

piso

floor

la

pista

dancefloor

el

punto

point

el

ritmo

rhythm

el

tiempo

time/timing

VERBS 2

ajustar/areglar

adjust

anadir

add

apurarse

hurry

aumentar

increase

concentrar

concentrate

conectar

connect

confundir

confuse

contrar

count

cortar

cut

crecer

grow

cuidar

care

decidir

decide

decir

say

desarollar (se)

develop

esperar

wait

explicar

explain

guiar

guide

inclinar(se)

lean

necesitar

need

oir

hear

permitir

allow/let

poder

can/be able to

respirar

breath

saber

know

ser/estar

be

torcer(se)

twist

Abrazo The embrace; a hug; or dance position.

Abrir To open.

Adelante Forward

Adornos Embellishments.

Al costado To the side.

Amague From amagar. To make a threatening motion as a feint: An amague is used as an embellishment either led or done on one’s own, and may be used before taking a step. An example of an amague may be a beat (frappé) before taking a step. See Cuatro.

Apilado Style See Milonguero Style.

Arrabal The slums.

Arrabalero A person of low social status. A person of simple and direct ways who speaks plainly and uses coarse language.

Arrastre A drag. E.g., to drag your partner's foot with your own.

Arrepentida Repentant; To change one’s mind: A family of steps which allow a couple to back away from a collision or traffic jam in a minimal amount of space and on short notice.

Atrás Backward

Bailar To dance.

Bailarin A professional or very accomplished dancer.

Bailongo A lunfardo word to describe a place where people dance, i.e. a milonga.

Balanceo A deep check and replace. See Cadencia.

Baldosa A walking box figure named after the black & white checkerboard tile floors which are common in Buenos Aires. See Cuadrado.

Barrida (from barrer, To sweep away.) Also called llevada. A sweeping motion. One partner's foot sweeps the other's foot.

Barrio A neighborhood in an Argentine city.

Boleo (from bolear. An ornament. Throwing or swiveling one leg with the knees locked together, usually one behind the other. A boleo may be done with the toe touching the floor or higher. And may be executed either high or low. Keeping knees together, with one leg in back, swivel on the supporting leg.

Los brazos The arms.

Cabeceo From cabeza; head: Traditional technique for selecting dance partners from a distance at the milongas in Buenos Aires by using eye contact and head movements. See also Codigos.

Cadena Chain. A movement of two people across the floor in a circular motion. One partner displaces the other partners leg and rolls across the front of their body. The other partner continues the motion. Must be seen to be appreciated.

Cadencia A deep check and replace usually led by the man as he steps forward left. Useful for avoiding collisions and making direction changes in small spaces. May also refer to a subtle shifting of weight from foot to foot in place and in time with the music done by the man before beginning a dance to give the lady the rhythm he intends to dance and to ensure that she will begin with him on the correct foot. See Balanceo.

Caida Fall: A step in which the man steps backward, sinks on his supporting leg, and crosses his working leg in front without weight while leading the lady to step forward in outside position, sink on her supporting leg and cross her working leg behind without weight. Caida may be done to either side.

Calecita Carousel; the merry-go-round: A figure in which the man places the lady on one foot with a lifting action of his frame and then dances around her while keeping her centered over, and pivoting on, her supporting leg. Sometimes referred to as the Stork.

Caminar To walk.The walk is similar to a natural walking step. The body and leg must move as a unit so that the body is in balance.

Candombe A type of dance done by the descendants of black slaves in Argentina. A type of tango music with a marked rhythm played on a drum. The place where black people went to dance (synonymous with 'milonga').

Cangrejo The crab: A repetitive pattern of walking steps and or sacadas in which the man advances turned nearly sideways to his partner.

Canyengue An older style of tango.

Carancanfunfa (also carancanfun) In the lingo of the compadritos, the dance of tango with interruptions (cortes) and also those who dance it that way in a very skillful manner.

Caricias Caresses: A gentle stroking with the leg or shoe against some part of the partner's body. They can be subtle or extravagant. See Adorno, Firulete, and Lustrada.

Carousel: The lead steps in a circle around the follower - keeping them on their own axis.

Carpa The tent: A figure created when the man leads the lady onto one foot as in calecita and then steps back away from her, causing her to lean at an angle from her foot to his frame.

Castigada From castigar: to punish; a punishment: A lofting of the lady's working leg followed by flexing at the knee and caressing the working foot down the outside of the supporting leg. Often done as an adorno prior to stepping forward, as in parada or in ochos.

Chiche (pl. chiches) Small ornamental beats done around the supporting foot with the working foot in time with the music, either in front or in back as desired. See adorno, firulete.

La Cintura The waist.

El compás The beat.

Corrida A running step used in milonga, a series of small steps in double-time.

Corte Cut. Corte means cutting the music either by syncopating or holding several beats, taking something away from the principal move. Opposite of Firuletes.

Cruzada The cross. Crossing one foot in front or in back of the other.

Cruzar To cross.

El cuerpo The body

Los dedos The fingers, toes

Derecha Right.

Derecho Straight.

Despacio Slowly.

Desplazamiento displacement. Displacing a partner's foot or leg using your own foot or leg.

Dibujo A drawing or sketch. A dibujo is done by drawing circles or other small movements on the floor with the toe.

Doble Tiemp Double time.

El eje The axis (of the body).

Enganche Hooking or coupling, wrapping your leg around your partner's leg.

Enrosque From enroscar, to coil, twist, or screw. To spin on one foot while hooking the other foot behind, usually while the woman is executing a molinete.

Escuchar To listen.

Fantasia A style of tango for the stage characterized by large sweeping moves, and often many ganchos. Considered inappropriate in a small club or salon.

Fijarse Pay close attention to.

Gancho A hook. Used primarily on stage, considered inappropriate for salon tango.

Giro Turn. When the woman is doing a molinete, the man walks in a circle to his right or left (can be done either direction), sometimes turning sharply, sometimes slowly. One of the basic walking patterns.

Guiar To guide, also to lead.

Izquierda Left.

Juntos Together. From juntar to join together, as in one's feet or knees.

Lápiz Pencil. A circular figure executed with one foot drawing on the floor.

Llevada From llevarto carry or transport. Similar to a barrida. The man can move the woman's foot with his own, carrying it off the floor or across the floor.

La Marca The lead. From marquar, to lead.

Media vuelta Half turn.Usually done when man's right foot and woman's left foot are free. Man steps forward with his right leading woman to take a back step with her left and then leads her to take two steps while making a half turn.

Milonga 1) The music of a dance that preceeded the tango, usually in 2/4 time, quicker and more upbeat than tango. 2) A dance, where people go to dance tango and milonga.

Milonguero An older tango dancer, one who frequented the milongas during the 1940's and 50's. Also refers to those frequenting the milongas and considered tango enthusiasts. May also describe a style of dancing during that period.

Mirar To look.

Molinete Little windmill. A fan. When the follower moves in a circle around the leader, doing a footwork resembling forward and backward ochos.

Mordida Bite. One partner's foot is sandwiched between the other partner's feet.

Ochos Eights. Pivoting forward or backward with the feet together during the pivot and extended during the step.

Ocho atras: ochos backward

Ocho cortado Cut eight.

Orillero The outskirts of the city, suburban. Orillero style A style of dancing from the suburbs characterized by the man doing many quick, syncopated foot moves.

Parada A stop.

Pasos Steps.

Patada A kick.

El pecho The chest.

El peso The weight.

El piso Floor

La pista Dance floor

Pocket: Anytime the lead walks on outside of partner - either hip.

Preguntar To ask.

Una pregunta, por favor. A question, please.

Las piernas The legs

Quebrada Break. The woman is standing on one foot, often hanging her weight on the man. The other foot is relaxed, often slightly raised with the toe touching the floor.

Rápido Fast. Usually heard "mas rapido."

Resolución Resolution. An ending to a basic pattern.

El Ritmo The rhythm.

Las Rodillas The knees.

Rulo A curl.

Sacada A displacement of the feet.

Salida A start, or a run. The beginning of a pattern.

Salida Cruzada The beginning of a pattern with a cross, stepping side left crossing right foot behind left or side right crossing left foot behind right.

Salón A style of dancing for the milonga or small club, as opposed to stage tango (see Fantasia).

Sandwichito: One partner's foot is sandwiched between the other partner's feet.

Seguir To follow.

Sacada A displacement, to move your partner's leg out of the way gently with your own. See desplazamiento.

Sentada A sitting move, the woman sits on her partner's bent leg or waist.

Trabada Fastened, a lock step. The step that the woman takes when the man steps outisde his partner with his right foot and then straight forward left, together right. At this point the woman crosses and this cross is referred to as a trabada.

Una vez mas One more time.

Vals Waltz, done to tango music in waltz time.

please send any comments or suggestions about this guide to baguide@tango.gen.nz